A straight guide to plant-based milks

Here is what each one is genuinely good at, and what to buy it for.

Soy milk, the protein one

Soy milk carries roughly 7 grams of protein a cup, against about 8 in cow milk. Nothing else on this list is close. It is usually fortified with calcium and B vitamins, it froths well, and it has enough body to stand up in a sauce or a custard.

Best with: coffee, smoothies, oatmeal, anything where you want the protein to count.

Oat milk, the creamy one

Oat milk is the best barista milk on this list. It steams beautifully, it does not split in hot coffee the way almond does, and it has a natural sweetness that means you can use less sugar in baking.

Do not buy it for the fibre, though. A cup carries about 2 grams, which is a fraction of what a bowl of actual oats gives you. Drink oat milk because it is the nicest thing in your coffee, and eat porridge on the days you want the fibre.

Best with: coffee, baking, anything you want creamy.

Coconut milk, the rich one

The carton kind is thin and drinkable. The tinned kind is thick and is a different ingredient entirely, so do not swap one for the other. Coconut brings medium-chain triglycerides and a distinct flavour that will show up in whatever you put it in, which is either the point or a problem depending on the dish.

Best with: curries, cooking, baking, coffee if you like the flavour.

Cashew milk, the smooth one

Very smooth, very mild, and the closest thing to cream when you make it thick at home. Unsweetened cashew milk is lighter than most, and it blends into soups and sauces without announcing itself.

Best with: smoothies, creamy soups, drinking.

Hemp milk, the underrated one

Hemp seeds bring a decent amount of plant protein and both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which is unusual on this list. The flavour is nutty and a bit earthy and people either take to it immediately or never do.

Best with: smoothies, baking, porridge.

Almond milk, the light one

The most widely available and the thinnest. Low in calories, low in protein, and a good source of vitamin E. It splits in very hot coffee more readily than oat or soy, so add it to a slightly cooled cup or buy a barista version.

Best with: cereal, smoothies, everyday drinking.

Two things to check on any carton

1. 1Fortification. Plant milks are not naturally good sources of calcium, vitamin D or B12. Most are fortified, some are not, and the unfortified organic ones are usually the ones that are not. If you are replacing dairy entirely, this matters.
2. 2Added sugar. "Original" often means sweetened. Unsweetened is its own line and it is almost always the one you want for cooking.